The BHQ Automotive Thread

Discussion in 'General Talk' started by ningnangnong, Sep 10, 2013.

  1. Mightybroncs2k17

    Mightybroncs2k17 QCup Player

    Spent the last few weekends checking out the new 2019 triton and a few demo 2018 tritons. I know they're the cheapest in the 4wd duel cab category but we wont be doing serious off roading we are more just chasing a solid value for money ute.

    Anyone had experience with them before?
  2. Mechanic drives one. He gives them shit cause they aren't one if the big 2 in the game, but he rates it, and uses it for camping and towing the boat.

    Every 45 K you need to check valve clearances. Around 4 hours work, and they usually run a timing belt due at 100k not a chain.

    Being a Mitsi, don't neglect it, it will be your best friend. Treat it shit, it's going to piss you off more than you can piss it off.
    Mightybroncs2k17 likes this.
  3. abashii

    abashii NRL Player

    20190228_094934.jpg 20190228_094113.jpg 20190228_094211.jpg IMG_1179.jpg 20190228_094907.jpg Dunno how relevant it is for this particular thread, but I took the ute up to Bellthorpe and Conondale on Sunday. Just got some low quality pics from the mate I went with. Definitely going back, for a bog stock ute on highway tyres she went quite well on the slippery surface and does pretty well flexing the rear wheels (again for a stock leaf sprung 1ton ute).

    Anyone else go fourbying? I get out to Sundown at least once a year and have a blast. Could really use a bullbar and some muddies though, last time I had to be super careful with lines so I didn't smash the bumper and the highway tyres aren't much chop on wet rocks when they're already packed up with mud.
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2019
    Dexter likes this.
  4. Clintos

    Clintos NRL Captain

    I have a question for the mechanically savvy people here, as I am not one of you.

    Having a few problems with my car lately. It's started to shudder when I'm stopped at lights etc, and there is quite a bit of lag when I try to take off. Usually it's when the engine is cold, but it has also happened when warmed up.

    This morning my car dropped out 4 times in the space of 1km. The battery light flickered on and I lost all power. Put it in park and turn off the ignition and I can start it straight back up - no issue. I got a new battery last year, so maybe it's the connections?

    Any ideas?
  5. Any engine light on?

    If not, it's likely power related. Might be your alternator rather than battery.

    Let me know if you want a test on the system done.
  6. Clintos

    Clintos NRL Captain

    Nah, there's no lights on. The battery light flicks on when it dies, but goes away.
    Starts straight back up again as well - which is why I thought it might be a cable or something.

    I know next to nothing about mechanical stuff, so I speak purely from ignorance.
  7. I think you need to have a charging system test done. Free at most places, they will test battery and alternator. I'd be surprised if it was something else.
    Clintos likes this.
  8. I had the same issue in my car once, it ended up being the battery.

    It crapped itself. A brand new one from Autobahn. Took it back and got a replacement.
  9. A friend has a 98 corolla 1.6L
    It used to idle high, now wont idle at all.
    She started it thismorn & it idled V low for about 2min then stalled.
    Foot on accelerator it runs fine. Foot off, it stalls. It was running fine yesterday.
  10. Idle control by the sounds of it, could be failed. Changed battery recently?

    Worth trying this as a first step;

    Step 1: Turn the key to the ON position but do not start.
    Step 2: Press the accelerator pedal ALL THE WAY to the floor and hold it for 40 seconds.
    Step 3: Release the accelerator pedal ALL THE WAY and count for 35 seconds.
    Step 4: Press the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and hold for 30 seconds.
    Step 5: Release the accelerator pedal and count for 25 seconds.
    Step 6: Press the Accelerator pedal to the floor and hold for 20 seconds.
    Step 7: Release the accelerator pedal and count for 15 seconds.
    Step 8: Press the accelerator pedal to the floor and count for 10 seconds and then release the pedal for 10 seconds. Do this 2 times
    Step 9: Quickly press the accelerator pedal to the floor and then release three times.
    Step 10: Start the engine.

    Then see if it idles, if it does, go for a drive, making sure to start and stop as if you were at lights. About 15 - 30 minutes will do it. This will reset the idle position motor and put the vehicle into a learn mode to learn the driving habits of the driver.
  11. Thanks for your time mate, you're a legend.
    Tried the process twice. No difference...
  12. If it's started straight away fine, it's unlikely to be power related. It's not uncommon for the idle controllers to fail on those old beasts though.


    Looks like that. Take a look, I'm sure you maybe able to work it out yourself if you wanted to save your mate the labour.

    Prices below to give a general idea.

    ChewThePhatt likes this.
  13. Thanks mate, I'll have a look at it thisarvo.
  14. Are diagnostic apps any good?
    An app & (quality?) plugin thing is less than $30!
    A friend has recommended the "inCarDoc Pro" app & a "Vgate" plug.
  15. You need a bluetooth OBD adapter. If you're getting one, they can be handy to diagnose some smaller items. Some of the apps can give information which can be interpreted incorrectly if you don't know what you're looking at.

    The car you were talking about today is probably a little too early for the standard used to connect those apps.
    ChewThePhatt likes this.
  16. Dexter


    So I ended up buying the Ford Ranger 2ltr.
    I love this ute BUT when the style side tub gets replaced with the tray the wiring is left exposed .
    Its a known problem, with other buyers pointing it out, but Ford at this stage don't want to know about it.

  17. That's absolutely an issue. Go to Ford head office and tell them that the dealer doesn't care, that this is unacceptable. That loom will cost thousands to replace.
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2019
    abashii likes this.
  18. abashii

    abashii NRL Player

    Is the tray a factory/dealer option or chucked on after the sale?
  19. Fleet company denied us authorisation to replace transmission fluid in a 300,000km Hilux today. "They're filled for life". Of course the dumb shit couldn't tell me what life. Stated he was a 'Qualified Toyota Service Representitive' after giggling when I said he was absolutely wrong. Oil was absolutely disgusting.

    So if you have a lease, make sure these useless assholes are listening to the mechanics that you select. Most cars say "Fill for life" and it's a load of shit. Not one manufacturer will put in writing what life. So we run with warranty of vehicle.
  20. Dexter


    I had everything done through Ford including the electronic break controller and Anderson plug even though it was a bit more than after market price because i wanted the car as soon as possible for work and also so they couldn't blame anyone else.
    They haven't declined finding a fix just gone silent.
    The other **** up was the tray. Ford quoted me for a 1650mm tray the same size as my old one but when i picked up the car the tray was 1560mm .
    Duratray quote an external dimension not internal , useless info but if I wanted all the tech pack operational that was the only size they could make work.
    Problem being the salesman didn't know
    and didnt pass on the full quote to me showing all dimensions.
    Duratray could put any size tray on but Ford won't share the necessary info to calibrate the sensors so the computer knows how long the tray is.
    It shouldn't be this hard, right?
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2019

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