The BHQ Automotive Thread

Nashy

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Hey boys, probably a longshot but can anyone recommend a Brisbane based car fridge repair place?
What's actually wrong with it. If you go in looking for someone in automotive land, you're limiting yourself to the expensive stuff, when this is probably something a normal electrical guy can do.
 

Rico

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What's actually wrong with it. If you go in looking for someone in automotive land, you're limiting yourself to the expensive stuff, when this is probably something a normal electrical guy can do.
Thanks for the reply Nashy. Cant seem to move the temperture off the current setting. I guess you call it a switch / dial problem. Fairly sure the actual fridge is ok.
 
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Nashy

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Thanks for the reply Nashy. Cant seem to move the temperture off the current setting. I guess you call it a switch / dial problem. Fairly sure the actual fridge is ok.
It's likely something that Kimlo Kimlo maybe able to direct you on. What's it worth? If it's sub $500 and you've had some years out of her, it might be getting to a point where the repair price is more than the unit itself.
 

Rico

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It's likely something that Kimlo Kimlo maybe able to direct you on. What's it worth? If it's sub $500 and you've had some years out of her, it might be getting to a point where the repair price is more than the unit itself.
Fair point and sub $500 now mate had a great run out of it. Doesnt owe me anything although I stuck in a new power board a couple of years ago.
 

Kimlo

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Thanks for the reply Nashy. Cant seem to move the temperture off the current setting. I guess you call it a switch / dial problem. Fairly sure the actual fridge is ok.
What fridge is it mate? Get me a brand and model number if you can.

When you say you can't move the temp, you mean you press the button and you get no response on the screen but it's otherwise fully functional and cooling as normal?

I doubt you'll find any sort of car/fridge place as that's pretty niche. It's either a compressor fault (if it's not cooling properly) which is probably beyond economical repair given what most fridges are worth, or an electronics fault, which may or may not be fixable. Some of the stuff is designed to be repairable, some are designed to be disposable the second any part fails.

Get me a model number and I'm happy to take a look and let you know.
 

Rico

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What fridge is it mate? Get me a brand and model number if you can.

When you say you can't move the temp, you mean you press the button and you get no response on the screen but it's otherwise fully functional and cooling as normal?

I doubt you'll find any sort of car/fridge place as that's pretty niche. It's either a compressor fault (if it's not cooling properly) which is probably beyond economical repair given what most fridges are worth, or an electronics fault, which may or may not be fixable. Some of the stuff is designed to be repairable, some are designed to be disposable the second any part fails.

Get me a model number and I'm happy to take a look and let you know.
Really appreciate the above mate. Bloody kind of you. It’s a Waeco coolfreeze CF - 50.
Can’t move temp as in I press temp Button to increase cooling and it doesn’t move but when I remove the cover with the two screws it seems to move with every say second push.
On the cooling front, when I run it on the 240 / PowerPoint it seems to be cooling as normal but I went out to Birdsville for the races over the weekend and ran it on a battery and solar and copped the odd error code and seemed to have variable cooling. ..beer was cold but wasn’t that happy with the temp. Does the power source (as in if you use a battery)effect the cooling?
Thanks again kimlo and nashy.
 

Kimlo

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Really appreciate the above mate. Bloody kind of you. It’s a Waeco coolfreeze CF - 50.
Can’t move temp as in I press temp Button to increase cooling and it doesn’t move but when I remove the cover with the two screws it seems to move with every say second push.
On the cooling front, when I run it on the 240 / PowerPoint it seems to be cooling as normal but I went out to Birdsville for the races over the weekend and ran it on a battery and solar and copped the odd error code and seemed to have variable cooling. ..beer was cold but wasn’t that happy with the temp. Does the power source (as in if you use a battery)effect the cooling?
Thanks again kimlo and nashy.
I would say it's very likely judging by that description that it's simply a faulty button mechanism or a failing button control board, which isn't unlikely given it's a fridge which produces condensation and I doubt fridge makers for a car are high on the build quality list. Hot car, cold fridge, expand, contract, gaps form, liquid/moisture gets in, corrodes over time.

As to whether it's fixable, I'll need to look in that model and see.

As for the cooling potential, I'll need to do the above as well. In theory, a well designed unit should be able to push an equal amount of amperage whether 240V AC or 12V DC in the car but if it's underpowered by poor design, or for example a non genuine car power adapter it might not be pushing enough amps to properly cool it which will definitely make it cool like crap. Kind of like running a 2KW AC in a room that needs 4KW, they're designed to push just enough power to cool their given volume so anything under the designed spec won't cool well.

Will get back to you tomorrow.
 
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Nashy

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FYI Kimlo Kimlo - Doubt you find a better brand than Waeco. High quality, high price point, good warranties. I'll make a call today, see if they would sell a control board.
 

Kimlo

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Really appreciate the above mate. Bloody kind of you. It’s a Waeco coolfreeze CF - 50.
Can’t move temp as in I press temp Button to increase cooling and it doesn’t move but when I remove the cover with the two screws it seems to move with every say second push.
On the cooling front, when I run it on the 240 / PowerPoint it seems to be cooling as normal but I went out to Birdsville for the races over the weekend and ran it on a battery and solar and copped the odd error code and seemed to have variable cooling. ..beer was cold but wasn’t that happy with the temp. Does the power source (as in if you use a battery)effect the cooling?
Thanks again kimlo and nashy.
Okay,

I've had some time to have a proper look now, really nice model so probably worth trying to fix for sure as it's still a current production model.

First off, for your cooling performance, this model definitely includes both a 240V input and 12V input, so in theory running from either a mains outlet or 12V car socket should both run at full performance, if you're not using the original which looks like this, they're $20 at Jaycar so try that first.
6176

Like I said, theory though! These things are designed to run 12v at 8amps which is huge power draw and a lot of car 12v plugs are run on crap wiring and can't push out 8amps, so if it's struggling and only pushing 5amps, or, worse, your cooling performance will be terrible. I don't know anything about your battery/solar setup but it's the exact same concept, if that rig is not designed to push a consistent 8amps at 12V, or roughly 100watts, it won't power it properly and is actually likely to cause problems or even be a fire hazard because the batteries would be working at 100% full tilt the entire time, so you need to check your battery/solar setup and see what it's actually designed to output, should be somewhere around the barcodes/serial number section with a section for output voltage like "12V 5A". It has to be 12V or it'll instantly burn out, but the amps you want to be at least 8, but higher is better.

Assuming everything else if fixed, and you're using a genuine 12V Waeco car plug, I'd go to an auto electrician to either wire you in a new 12V socket with high quality cables that can actually withstand up to 10AMPS, or direct wire a plug to the battery. Most cars "should" run 12v 10amps but a lot of them have crap wiring and can't actually sustain that in practice.

------------
As for the button thing, looks fixable and seems to use pretty standard components and parts are even available which is good.

6177
That's the button control board but ideally it's not a board failure and it would be fixable without buying a new board. I'd be looking to clean up any possible corrosion, replacing the actual button switches, etc. Replacing the entire board is a last option normally.

If you want, send me a PM and you can drop it off to me sometime and I'll take a look and get it fixed.
 
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Rico

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Legends you blokes ...seriously. More knowledge and connections than me thats for sure. I ended up talking to one of their approved dealers in the bayside and then 'could be a range of things' bollocks started.
catch you on the PM Kimlo and thanks men.
 

Nashy

International Captain
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Brisbane
Legends you blokes ...seriously. More knowledge and connections than me thats for sure. I ended up talking to one of their approved dealers in the bayside and then 'could be a range of things' bollocks started.
catch you on the PM Kimlo and thanks men.
My guy is seeing what he can find for it too. I won't bore the thread since you're going to talk to Kimlo, I'll annoy him in our private chat when I find out.
 

LittleDavey83

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Nashy Nashy - another one for you mate. I've got an 05 Toyota Avensis Verso (MPV), auto, it has the common 2.4L 2AZ-FE inline 4-pot as found in the Rav, Camry, Corolla, Tarago etc of that vintage. Picked it up cheap and had to fix a few things already (cam position sensor, starter, alternator voltage reg was dying so I upgraded the alt / belt and all the wiring for good measure, etc) which is no drama, I love tinkering and knowing my car.

It's had a rough-ish idle since I got it about 12 months ago, which these engines often do, but recently it's taken to shuddering quite badly - but only when in drive, so when I'm stuck at the lights or something. In neutral/park it's ok, heck even reverse isn't too bad, but in drive when not moving it's like a massage chair - stops immediately on releasing the brake. Watching the engine bay when the wifey recreates the situation, the engine does 'sit back' noticeably. Would I be on the right track thinking it's likely to be engine/tranny mounts? I haven't checked them for issues yet, I'll have a gander on the wknd but that's my gut feel. Anything else it's likely to be / that I should check out?
 

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